Photography – Prabhu's Ponder

Temple of Literature – Vietnam Travel Diary – 7

Temple of Literature – Hanoi

Văn Miếu, literally translated as Temple of Literature, is a temple in Hanoi, northern Vietnam, dedicated to Confucius, the Chinese Scholar. The temple was founded and first built in 1070 at the time of Emperor Lý Thánh Tông.

Over the next 6 years, his son established a new complex called the Imperial Academy, which educated royal members, such as nobles, princes, and bureaucrats. They would learn the doctrines of Confucius, as well as other Confucianism-relating theories.

The core belief of Confucianism is to focus on rigorously educating the rules of political, social, and ethical conduct. It is believed to bring wonderful values, encouraging each individual’s development in society.

In 1253, the Hanoi Confucius Temple first opened its doors to excellent commoners coming to study for 3 – 7 years. At that time, the official curriculum was under the strong impact of Imperial China, including the study of Chinese penmanship, literature, and poetry. Despite that, the values of Confucianism have been preserved to this day.

The First Courtyard (Dai Trung Mon)

After coming across the Great Middle Gate, visitors will be impressed by the green and fresh ambiance of Dai Trung Mon. On the right and left side, you can see two special-designed gates called Talent Gate and Virtua Gate respectively. Both gates expressed the expectation of the Vietnamese royalty towards the best achievements in the national educational system.

On the top of the gates, there is a symbol of a fish, which relates to a Vietnamese tradition in the past. Legend has it that the King or God organized a competition to find the strongest fish, which was compared to the way to seek the talents of a nation. Once they overcome all of the challenges, brilliant individuals represented by the symbol Dragon at the academy .

The Second Courtyard (Khue Van Cac)

Khue Van Cac (Pavilion of Constellation) is known as a symbol of the Temple of Literature Hanoi, which is a familiar image to most travelers. It is simply because when you exchange currency for a Vietnam dong, you can easily catch sight of Khue Van Cac on the 100,000 VND banknote.

The Third Courtyard (Thien Quang Well)

Thien Quang Well was constructed in a square shape, representing the earth, together with the circle on the top of the pavilion – meaning the sky. All of these things mean a wish for harmony between the earth and sky, bringing prosperous development to one country.

In this Courtyard of Temple Hanoi, visitors will also see stone turtles with large stelae, as a strong respect for the beliefs of Confucianism and the national Doctors. Although there are only 83 remaining stelae today, this site is one of the impressive royal styles, which is great for visitors to discover more about Vietnamese culture.

The Forth Courtyard (Dai Thanh Mon)

“Dai Thanh Mon” means “the great success” in Vietnamese, boasting the sanctuary to Confucius and the magnificent House of Ceremonies. In the center of the sanctuary, tourists can see an altar – decorated in Vietnamese tradition, with 5 basic elements, including Fire, Metal, Water, Wood, and Earth. Additionally, the altar is always filled with offerings and incense, expressing strong honors to the ancestors of the Vietnamese people. This also makes Dai Thanh Mon one of the most sacred areas in Van Mieu Hanoi.

The Fifth Courtyard (The Grounds of Imperial Academy)

The last courtyard in the Temple of Literature Hanoi is the Grounds of the Imperial Academy. It is the sole place belonging to this temple to be designed on 2 floors. When visiting the ground floor, you will see a statue of the famous Vietnamese teacher Chu Van An. Besides that, visitors also have a chance to discover more about Confucian education of Vietnamese Feudal Dynasties through some pictures and artifacts.

The second floor is the area to worship the three Kings who played important roles in developing Van Mieu Hanoi, including Ly Thanh Tong, Ly Nhan Tong, and Le Thanh Tong. With their contributions, the Vietnamese educational system has been preserved and maintained for thousands of years.

Here is my video

Hanoi – The old and new – Vietnam Travel Diary 8

Cyclo Tour of Old District

By sitting on a cyclo, slowly going through each street and alley to admire the cultural features and daily life activities of the people, international tourists have interesting experiences when visiting Hanoi. For Hanoians, the image of cyclos has long been an important part of the city’s typical cultural picture. The image of cyclo drivers leisurely pedaling on the old streets, with the characteristic curved glass bell, has become a symbol of peace and tranquility in urban life. It is a special highlight in the landscape of Hanoi, contributing to the diversity and richness of the capital’s culture.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum

The President Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is a mausoleum which serves as the resting place of Vietnamese revolutionary leader and President Ho Chi Minh in Hanoi, Vietnam, is one of Vietnam’s most revered landmarks and stands as a powerful symbol of the nation’s history and independence.

The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum is centrally located in Ba Dinh Square, Hanoi, an area of immense historical and political significance. It is surrounded by other key landmarks such as the Presidential Palace, One Pillar Pagoda, and the Ho Chi Minh Museum, making it a crucial stop in any Hanoi itinerary.

Water Puppet Show

Every year during the annual rice harvest, farmers in Vietnam’s Red River Delta region would gather for folk singing and dancing at village festivals. About one thousand years ago, water puppets were added to the list of performances at these festivals. The first shows were hosted in the harvested rice fields, which could be filled with water to create a watery stage.

Water puppetry as a folk art form evolved from serving everyday people to a show for royalty. Under the reign of the Lý Dynasty in the 12th century, the country’s best water puppet troupes were chosen to entertain the king and guests, marking a new high for the art’s social status. Many centuries later, water puppetry (múa rối nước) still fascinates audiences, and is a cherished intangible cultural heritage of Vietnam.

Múa rối nước is a physically demanding craft. Puppeteers stand in water throughout the show, and use the movement of the water to create drama, perfect the illusion, and tell a story. The puppeteers’ secret lies in the material of the puppets themselves, which are made of buoyant fig wood and painted with lacquer. The puppeteers skillfully maneuver the puppet’s arms using bamboo sticks and strings. It takes decades to become a master water puppeteer.

Today in Vietnam, water puppet shows are not presented in flooded rice paddies but in pools of water. These pools are decorated with red tiered roofs, flags, and parasols to resemble an altar inside Vietnamese communal houses. On both sides of the stage sit the musical ensemble who bring the stories to life using their voices and traditional instruments.

A traditional show always starts with an introduction to Tễu, the comedic host. Tễu is an iconic character, a whimsical storyteller who will lead you through different scenes and stories as they unfold on stage. The brightly coloured puppets recreate daily life in Vietnam’s northern villages, including duck herding, fishing, rice planting, boat rowing, and royal parades. Some shows include depictions of Vietnamese folktales, which always carry a moral.

The show we saw was at Thang Long Water Puppet Theatre.

Here is the video of our Hanoi Tour

Ha Long Bay Cruise – Day 1 – Vietnam Travel Diary – 5

Ha Long Bay

Hạ Long Bay, in northeast Vietnam, is known for its emerald waters and thousands of towering limestone islands topped by rainforests.

The name Hạ Long means “descending dragon”. Hạ Long Bay has an area of around 1,553 km2 (600 sq mi), including 1,969 islets, most of which are limestone. The core of the bay has an area of 334 km2 (129 sq mi) with a high density of 775 islets.

The Cruise along the Ha Long Bay starts on a sleek, modern vessel that fuses contemporary styling with Vietnamese design concepts. Paradise Elegance is a luxury cruising on Ha Long. Boasting a piano bar, day spa, butler service and the full range of dining options, cruise on the Elegance is an experience exquisite, the journey flawless.

The day (literally noon, after a long drive from Hanoi) starts with a briefing, a welcome song followed by Lunch. There were excellent Indian vegetarian options on board with an Indian Chef dishing out delicacies to our taste buds.

TiTop Island

After lunch and of course after a siesta in the comfortable cabin, we head to TiTop Island sits at the heart of Ha Long Bay. It is relatively small (a total area of 3.7 hectares); yet it’s regarded as one of the most picturesque islands in the bay and is a crowd favorite among Halong tourists.

Formerly called Cat Nang Island, it is now named after Russian cosmonaut Gherman Titov, who in 1961 boarded the spaceship Vostok 2 and became the second man to orbit the Earth (after fellow Russian Yuri Gagarin who beat him by just a few months).

A year later, he visited Halong Bay and toured the area with Vietnam’s revered leader – Ho Chi Minh. He consulted with the locals and, in a gesture of friendship between Vietnam and Russia, renamed the island ‘Titov’ in honor of the valiant cosmonaut.

Titop offers breathtaking landscapes that can be viewed from a vantage point high up in the center of the island. The climb up the hill is a test of the strength of your knees as the steps are steep, winding and very often without side supports with only ropes to hold on and people forming ant line for climbing up and coming down. This island has a crescent-shaped beach, Vang Trang beach – It is now known as TiTop Beach. The beach is known for its tranquility, powdery white sand, and azure blue waters.

Luon Cave

A trip to TiTop hills, ensures that the gourmet lunch you had is well digested. It is now time for a Cuppa at the Elegance. A lecture demonstration of making Spring Rolls is followed by Tea. After tea, we use a smaller boat to enter the Luon Cave. If you are an ardent kayaker, you can do that.

Luon Cave is a natural water tunnel in Vietnam’s Halong Bay that leads to an enclosed, scenic lagoon. Located on Bo Hon Island, it is only accessible by small boats or kayaks due to its low ceiling and is popular for kayaking and exploring its unique ecosystem, which includes monkeys and ancient fossils. The cave itself is about 60 meters long. After passing through the cave, you enter a peaceful, enclosed lagoon surrounded by towering limestone formations and filled with lush plant life like ferns and orchids. The area is home to playful monkeys that can often be seen on the cliffs. You can also see evidence of ancient marine life, like fossilized shells, on the cave’s walls.

The day’s activities come to an end with a retreat back to Elegance. Dinner is followed by Live Music from the Piano Bar.

Here is my video

Ha Long Bay Cruise – Day 2 – Vietnam Travel Diary – 6

The Karsts

Hạ Long Bay, in northeast Vietnam, is known for its emerald waters and thousands of towering limestone islands topped by rainforests.

The limestone in this bay has gone through 500 million years of formation in different conditions and environments. The evolution of the karst in this bay has taken 20 million years under the impact of the tropical wet climate.

Karst is a type of landscape formed by the dissolution of soluble rocks like limestone, resulting in features such as sinkholes, caves, underground rivers, and springs. This process is caused by slightly acidic water, typically rainwater, seeping into cracks and dissolving the bedrock over millions of years. The term “karst” originates from the Karst Plateau in Slovenia and the surrounding region, and these landscapes are found globally, covering about 10-11% of the Earth’s surface.

Among the 1,969 sunken limestone towers submerged in the indigo waters of Ha Long Bay are a series of ancient caves and grottoes – many of which remained unexplored. To date, there are 59 caves listed on the official registry (this includes the most recent discovery of 23 ‘new’ caves), all of which have a special belonging in Ha Long Bay’s distinctive ecosystem. Undoubtedly the most famous of them all is Sung Sot Cave, which has rightfully earned its near-legendary status among visitors to the world-famous bay.

Day 2, commences with Tai Chi lessons at 0630 on the top deck of the cruise boat. Weather permitting, sun rise visuals are pleasing. After a sip of coffee/tea with cookies, we proceed on a smaller boat to Sung Sốt cave.

Sung Sốt cave

Sung Sốt cave is an old phreatic cave. It means “Grotte des Surprises”, or Surprising Cave, because of its ‘surprising’ beauty. It is on Bo Hon Island. From its truncated entrance chambers on a ledge high on the cliff, a passage of more than 10m high and wide descends to the south. It takes an hour to walk through the cave.

Sung Sot cave is the largest, perhaps the most renowned, and likely the most visited of all.

There’s a small dock at the bottom of Bo Hon Island, where you’ll dismount your boat and begin the climb up 100 or so steps to the mouth of Sung Sot Cave. The cave covers a staggering 10,000 square meters (that’s twice the size of the White House if that’s anything to go by).

The interior is separated into 2 caverns, the first of which is a small amphitheater type of space connected by a small passageway to the larger cavern next door, which is big enough to hold 1,000 people or more. The entire cave is bestrewn with stalactites and stalagmites, which serve as endless material for the legend and ‘lore of the area.

After the visit, it is time to pack up, checkout and loiter around the boat till it docks back.

Here is my video.

Ba Na Hills – Vietnam Travel Diary – 3

Sun World Ba Na Hills − the European-themed recreational complex is in the Trường Sơn Mountains, about 30km from Da Nang.

The only way up to Ba Na Hills is via the cable-cars. This infrastructure is among the 10 most impressive cable-car systems in the world. There are various cable lines and stations, depending on where you want to reach. We started at the famous Golden Bridge by taking the Hoi An (05) ground station. We were rewarded with a picturesque ride boasting incredible, 360-degree views.

Golden Bridge, a 150-metre-long bridge, has two giant hands holding the walkway. This attracts huge crowds every day.

At the top, the French Village has everything one would expect from a medieval village – a town square, cute cafes, a cathedral and fountain. It looks realistic as you walk the cobbled streets.

At the Linh Ung Pagoda one of the biggest Buddha statues in the land, which sits serenely on a five-metre wide circular base, and is 27 metres tall can’t be missed. Unfortunately the day we were there it was nearly covered by dense mist.

Another attraction that we visited is a 4D theatre where we had to wear glasses. The story was fun and the animation was good.

Outside of Luna Castle is Lava Castle, which is bright pink. One end is ‘held’ up by an Atlas statue, so make sure you stop and see that!

Rather than walking back to the main area, in the depths of Luna Castle there is a 400 year old funicular railway that takes 2 minutes to reach a building back in the main plaza.

Here is our video

Hoi An – Vietnam Travel Diary – 4

Hoi An Ancient Town is an exceptionally well-preserved example of a South-East Asian trading port dating from the 15th to the 19th century. Its buildings and its street plan reflect the influences, both indigenous and foreign, that have combined to produce this unique heritage site.

The town comprises a well-preserved complex of 1,107 timber frame buildings, with brick or wooden walls, which include architectural monuments, commercial and domestic vernacular structures, notably an open market and a ferry quay, and religious buildings such as pagodas and family cult houses. The houses are tiled and the wooden components are carved with traditional motifs. They are arranged side-by-side in tight, unbroken rows along narrow pedestrian streets.

Hội An is known for its architecture, a mix of eras and styles from wooden Chinese shophouses and temples to colorful French colonial buildings, ornate Vietnamese tube houses and the iconic Japanese Covered Bridge with its pagoda.

In this one-time trading port, the Thu Bon River meanders past crumbling shop houses and weathered pagodas.

Hoi An has an inherent easygoing beauty. Handmade lanterns hang at almost every door; its lantern-lit nights are sparkling.

Hoi An is bursting with tailor shops. Very well known around the world for their tailoring, you won’t struggle to find somewhere to get some custom clothing made.

Technically there isn’t a lot of sightseeing in Hoi An and the surroundings. Hoi An is one of those towns where you will be fine because part of its charm is just slowing down, sitting back, and watching the world go by.

Make sure that you go on the Thu Bon River on a basket boat tour through coconut forests. Traveling by a traditional woven vessel, you’ll soak up the stunning scenery of mangroves and rice paddies, while enjoying the undivded attention of your guide.

Here is the video

The Marble Mountains – Vietnam Travel Diary – 2

Marble Mountains is a group of five limestone peaks situated seven kilometres from downtown Da Nang. The five karsts (called Ngu Hanh Son in Vietnamese) are named after the five elements: Kim (metal), Thuỷ (water), Mộc (wood), Hoả (fire) and Thổ (earth). Over centuries, Marble Mountains has held special significance for the people of Central Vietnam. The ancient Cham revered the karsts as a spiritual site, and Vietnamese emperors from Hue and legendary generals passing through paid visits to the peaks, adding to their store of legends.

Marble Mountains is home to a network of caves, tunnels, towers, and pagodas built by Mahayana Buddhists and the Nguyen Dynasty Kings.

There are half a dozen large caves hidden away in the Marble Mountains, and many other small ones that are rarely visited. All the caves in Marble Mountains have unique features, and some have fascinating stories of being discovered and used as hideaways over the centuries.

On Water Mountain, Hoa Nghiem Cave is watched over by a beautiful 400-year-old stone statue of Lady Buddha’ and on Metal Mountain, Tang Chon Cave is worth a wander for the marble statues of chess players and mandarins placed inside the cave’s warrens.

This tour is about the Tang Chon Cave (Dong Tong Chon) which means “contains all truths of the universe”.

Cham people used to live and worship the gods here in the 12th century. During the reign of Le Canh Hung (1740-1786), they left and started living in Phan Rang which is 95 kms south of Nha Trang. Vietnamese rediscovered the caves, settled in the area and worshiped Buddha.

King Minh Mang (1791-1841) who was the second emperor of Nguyen dynasty of Vietnam named it Tang Chon cave meaning treasure or “the place where the treasure is stored”.

There are five caves inside Tang Chon are:

Thien Long Coc Cave: – The shrine has three compartments with image in each section. In the center is Lao Tu altar, the right compartment of which is to worship Linh Son Thanh Mau, and the left to worship Bat Bo Kim Cuong.
Ban Co Tien Cave: – On the left side of shrine is a semi-circular cave with two marble figures in white. They sit with a chess board between them. According to the legend, gods came down to play chess and talk.
On the right side of central shrine, stairs lead to a cave of Di Da Buddha or Amitabha cave.
Chiem Thanh cave also called the Cham Pa cave is next to the Di Da cave. The entrance to cave is very narrow.
Tam Thanh cave:

Outside these caves is the Xa Loi Tower. This 28-metre structure houses 200 statues of Buddha, and offers breathtaking views of the landscape below.

Da Nang – Vibrant Beach City – Vietnam Travel Diary – 1

Da Nang is the largest city in Vietnam by geographical area. It lies on the coast of the Western Pacific Ocean of Vietnam at the mouth of the Han River and is one of Vietnam’s most important port cities.

With broad beaches, fantastic street food, the fabled Hai Van Pass, and a growing collection of cafes, restaurants, and bars, it’s no wonder it is the vibrant beach city in the country. The warm sands of My Khe Beach sweep south from the mountainous Son Tra Peninsula. Da Nang’s much of the beach still belongs to the people who make it their playground, gym, and source of livelihood.

Here is a video that captures the spirit of Da Nang City

Angkor Thom – Cambodia Travel Diary – 3

Angkor Thom was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer Empire, established in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII in what is now Cambodia. Angkor Thom served as the final capital of this powerful empire, which ruled much of Southeast Asia from the 9th to the 15th centuries.

It is not a single temple, but a massive walled royal city containing temples, a Royal Palace, and impressive bas-reliefs, with the Bayon temple and its famous smiling faces being a central feature. The site is located in the Angkor Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is a popular tourist destination.

Key features of the city includes the Bayon temple, the Terrace of the Elephants and a Royal Palace, all within a large, walled and moated area. It is known for its architectural genius and intricate bas-reliefs that depict both mythical and historical scenes from Khmer life and battles.

”Angkor Thom is a ruined citadel several kilometers north of Angkor Wat. Angkor Thom encloses a rectangular area of nine square kilometers, and at its peak may have held a population of over 100,000, living in tiled or thatched houses. The building of the citadel dates to around the year 1200. Angkor Thom enclosed the Royal Palace (now vanished) and a handful of major temples; the complex was bounded by walls and a moat (now mostly dry) and pierced by five gates. The city was surrounded with rice fields, which provided food; these were irrigated with reservoirs, which also supplied drinking water.

While Angkor Wat is Hindu in inspiration, Angkor Thom resonates with sculpted images expressing the Mahayana Buddhist ideal of Lokesvara (compassion), Prajnaparamita (wisdom), and the Buddha (enlightenment). Although still incorporating Hindu elements, Angkor Thom is a three-dimensional representation of Buddhist cosmology. Temple ground plans reveal a mandala-like base, with radiating symmetrical forms. At the exact center of Angkor Thom lies the Bayon Temple.

What at first appears to be of masonry actually consists of massive stones shaped into fluid sculptures, without apparent use of cement or mortar.

On the top terrace of the Bayon, you come face-to-face with myriad of these giant stone heads topped with lotus crowns. There are dozens of them, originally 54 towers with four heads each of which 37 towers remain. The enormous heads, ranging in size from ten to fifteen feet, features eyes downcast under lowered lids.

Disorder in the construction of the Bayon is reflected in the numerous architectural changes. It seems that after the Cham sacked Angkor in 1177, Jayavarman VII decided the Hindu deities had failed, so he switched allegiance to Mahayana Buddhism. However, he made no attempt to alter existing Hindu elements. The Bayon was caught in the middle — the foundations are Hindu, but the superstructure is Buddhist. It is estimated that the Bayon took 20 years to build. Jayavarman VII’s son and grandson reverted the use of the temple to Hindu (Shivaist) worship, with Brahmans from India gaining great influence over the Angkor court. Heads and faces on statues were destroyed and replaced with Hindu gods.”
Michael Buckley

The Resiliet Khmer – Cambodia Travel Diary – 4

Kingdom of Cambodia is bordered by Thailand to the northwest, Laos to the north, and Vietnam to the east, and has a coastline along the Gulf of Thailand in the southwest. It spans an area of 181,035 square kilometres (69,898 square miles), dominated by a low-lying plain and the confluence of the Mekong river and Tonlé Sap, Southeast Asia’s largest lake. It is dominated by a tropical climate. Cambodia has a population of about 17 million people, the majority of which are ethnically Khmer. Its capital and most populous city is Phnom Penh, followed by Siem Reap and Battambang.

In 802 AD, Jayavarman II declared himself king, uniting the warring Khmer princes of Chenla under the name “Kambuja. This marked the beginning of the Khmer Empire. The Indianised kingdom facilitated the spread of first Hinduism and then Buddhism to Southeast Asia and undertook religious infrastructural projects throughout the region, the most famous of which is Angkor Wat.

In the 15th century, it began a decline in power until, in 1863, Cambodia became a French protectorate. Following Japanese occupation during World War II, Cambodia declared independence from France in 1953. The Vietnam War embroiled the country in civil war during the 1960s, culminating in a 1970 coup which installed the US-aligned Khmer Republic and the takeover of the communist Khmer Rouge in 1975. The Khmer Rouge ruled the country and carried out the Cambodian genocide from 1975 until 1979, until they were ousted during the Cambodian–Vietnamese War. Peace was restored by the 1991 Paris Peace Accords and subsequent United Nations peacekeeping mission, establishing a new constitution, holding the 1993 general election, and ending long-term insurgencies.

Agriculture remains its dominant economic sector, with growth in textiles, construction, garments, and tourism leading to increased foreign investment and international trade. The official and most widely spoken language is Khmer, and the most widely practiced religion is Buddhism. The country’s culture and traditions are shaped by its Angkorean heritage and international influences over its history.

Resilience is the key for the survival of Khmer and Angkorean heritage.