Tag: Khmer

Angkor Thom – Cambodia Travel Diary – 3

Angkor Thom was the last and most enduring capital city of the Khmer Empire, established in the late 12th century by King Jayavarman VII in what is now Cambodia. Angkor Thom served as the final capital of this powerful empire, which ruled much of Southeast Asia from the 9th to the 15th centuries.

It is not a single temple, but a massive walled royal city containing temples, a Royal Palace, and impressive bas-reliefs, with the Bayon temple and its famous smiling faces being a central feature. The site is located in the Angkor Archaeological Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is a popular tourist destination.  

Key features of the city includes the Bayon temple, the Terrace of the Elephants and a Royal Palace, all within a large, walled and moated area. It is known for its architectural genius and intricate bas-reliefs that depict both mythical and historical scenes from Khmer life and battles. 

”Angkor Thom is a ruined citadel several kilometers north of Angkor Wat. Angkor Thom encloses a rectangular area of nine square kilometers, and at its peak may have held a population of over 100,000, living in tiled or thatched houses. The building of the citadel dates to around the year 1200. Angkor Thom enclosed the Royal Palace (now vanished) and a handful of major temples; the complex was bounded by walls and a moat (now mostly dry) and pierced by five gates. The city was surrounded with rice fields, which provided food; these were irrigated with reservoirs, which also supplied drinking water.

While Angkor Wat is Hindu in inspiration, Angkor Thom resonates with sculpted images expressing the Mahayana Buddhist ideal of Lokesvara (compassion), Prajnaparamita (wisdom), and the Buddha (enlightenment). Although still incorporating Hindu elements, Angkor Thom is a three-dimensional representation of Buddhist cosmology. Temple ground plans reveal a mandala-like base, with radiating symmetrical forms. At the exact center of Angkor Thom lies the Bayon Temple.

What at first appears to be of masonry actually consists of massive stones shaped into fluid sculptures, without apparent use of cement or mortar.

On the top terrace of the Bayon, you come face-to-face with myriad of these giant stone heads topped with lotus crowns. There are dozens of them, originally 54 towers with four heads each of which 37 towers remain. The enormous heads, ranging in size from ten to fifteen feet, features eyes downcast under lowered lids.

Disorder in the construction of the Bayon is reflected in the numerous architectural changes. It seems that after the Cham sacked Angkor in 1177, Jayavarman VII decided the Hindu deities had failed, so he switched allegiance to Mahayana Buddhism. However, he made no attempt to alter existing Hindu elements. The Bayon was caught in the middle — the foundations are Hindu, but the superstructure is Buddhist. It is estimated that the Bayon took 20 years to build. Jayavarman VII’s son and grandson reverted the use of the temple to Hindu (Shivaist) worship, with Brahmans from India gaining great influence over the Angkor court. Heads and faces on statues were destroyed and replaced with Hindu gods.”

Michael Buckley

The Resiliet Khmer – Cambodia Travel Diary – 4

Kingdom of Cambodia is bordered by Thailand to the northwest, Laos to the north, and Vietnam to the east, and has a coastline along the Gulf of Thailand in the southwest. It spans an area of 181,035 square kilometres (69,898 square miles), dominated by a low-lying plain and the confluence of the Mekong river and Tonlé Sap, Southeast Asia’s largest lake. It is dominated by a tropical climate. Cambodia has a population of about 17 million people, the majority of which are ethnically Khmer. Its capital and most populous city is Phnom Penh, followed by Siem Reap and Battambang.

In 802 AD, Jayavarman II declared himself king, uniting the warring Khmer princes of Chenla under the name “Kambuja. This marked the beginning of the Khmer Empire. The Indianised kingdom facilitated the spread of first Hinduism and then Buddhism to Southeast Asia and undertook religious infrastructural projects throughout the region, the most famous of which is Angkor Wat.

In the 15th century, it began a decline in power until, in 1863, Cambodia became a French protectorate. Following Japanese occupation during World War II, Cambodia declared independence from France in 1953. The Vietnam War embroiled the country in civil war during the 1960s, culminating in a 1970 coup which installed the US-aligned Khmer Republic and the takeover of the communist Khmer Rouge in 1975. The Khmer Rouge ruled the country and carried out the Cambodian genocide from 1975 until 1979, until they were ousted during the Cambodian–Vietnamese War. Peace was restored by the 1991 Paris Peace Accords and subsequent United Nations peacekeeping mission, establishing a new constitution, holding the 1993 general election, and ending long-term insurgencies.

Agriculture remains its dominant economic sector, with growth in textiles, construction, garments, and tourism leading to increased foreign investment and international trade. The official and most widely spoken language is Khmer, and the most widely practiced religion is Buddhism. The country’s culture and traditions are shaped by its Angkorean heritage and international influences over its history.

Resilience is the key for the survival of Khmer and Angkorean heritage.

Angkor Wat – Cambodia Travel Diary – 1

Located on a site measuring 162.6 hectares (1.6 km2; 401.8 acres) within the ancient Khmer capital city of Angkor, it was originally constructed in 1150 CE as a Hindu temple dedicated to the deity Vishnu.

Angkor Wat was built at the behest of the Khmer king Suryavarman II in the early 12th century in Yaśodharapura (present-day Angkor), the capital of the Khmer Empire, as his state temple and eventual mausoleum.

Angkor Wat combines two basic plans of Khmer temple architecture: the temple-mountain and the later galleried temple. It is designed to represent Mount Meru and is surrounded by a moat more than 5 km (3.1 mi).

Enclosed within an outer wall 3.6 kilometres (2.2 mi) long are three rectangular galleries, each raised above the next. The expansive Temple complex covers an area of 400 acres. At the centre of the temple stands a quincunx of towers.

In 1177, approximately 27 years after the death of Suryavarman II, Angkor was sacked by the Chams, the traditional enemies of the Khmer. Thereafter, the Khmer empire was restored by Jayavarman VII, who established a new capital at Angkor Thom and the Bayon as the state temple, situated to the north. The temple was dedicated to Buddhism as the king’s wife Indradevi was a devout Mahayana Buddhist who encouraged him to convert. Angkor Wat was therefore also gradually converted into a Buddhist site with many Hindu sculptures replaced by Buddhist art.

The construction of Angkor Wat suggests that there was a celestial significance with certain features of the temple. This is observed in the temple’s east–west orientation, and lines of sight from terraces within the temple that show specific towers to be at the precise location of the solstice at sunrise. The Angkor Wat temple’s main tower aligns with the morning sun of the spring equinox.

Integrated with the architecture of the building, one of the causes for its fame is Angkor Wat’s extensive decoration. The inner walls of the outer gallery bear a series of large-scale scenes mainly depicting episodes from the Hindu epics the Ramayana and the Mahabharata.

https://youtu.be/cqJP27mSAv0?si=dz8uyIpRPf69_d4d

Ta Prohm (Temple of Brahma) – Cambodia Travel Diary – 2

In 1186 A.D., King Jayavarman 7, embarked on a massive program of construction and public works. Rajavihara (“monastery of the king”), today known as Ta Prohm (“ancestor Brahma”), was one of the first temples founded pursuant to that program. 

Jayavarman VII constructed Rajavihara in honour of his family. The temple’s main image, representing the personification of wisdom, was modelled on the king’s mother.

The site was home to more than 12,500 people (including 18 high priests and 615 dancers), with an additional 80,000 inhabitants in the surrounding villages working to provide services and supplies. 

After the fall of the Khmer Empire in the 15th century, the temple of Ta Prohm was abandoned and neglected for centuries.

In 1992, UNESCO inscribing Ta Prohm on the World Heritage List, initiated the conservation and restoration of Ta Prohm as a partnership project of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and the Authority for the Protection and Management of Angkor and the Region of Siem Reap (APSARA).

By 2013, the ASI restored most parts of the temple complex, some of which were constructed from scratch. Wooden walkways, platforms, and roped railings were put in place around the site to protect the monument from further damages from tourists.

It is emotionally draining to see “one of the most imposing [temples] built for personification of wisdom and was dedicated to a mother, best merging with the jungle, to the point of becoming a part of it”. 

Nothing but a soulful “Subha Pantuvarali” , (a raga that stirs one’s soul, evokes grief and sorrow in the heart and focusses one towards the inner consciousness) can describe the feeling one goes through on visiting this place.

I am no exception to that when I visited this place recently.

Here is my YouTube video . Pl subscribe to my channel

https://youtu.be/3u8-Wjk0V2Q?si=mv3u8udLpgQqCDIw